Thursday 12 July 2012

A Jamaican/Nigerian Celebration

OK so it's not haute cuisine, and I didn't make it myself. But as I imagine most people have limited exposure to West African and Caribbean food, I figured the unusual and exotic nature of it might generate some curiosity.

I recently went to the wedding of a Nigerian/Jamaican couple. With over 200 of their extended family present, many of whom had travelled from the Caribbean and Africa, the event was by turns joyous, serious and humorous. But what did we eat? I hear you cry. The short answer is - a lot of food! Always a good start!

Although I live in London, righfully proud of being one of the cosmpolitan, multi-cultural capitals of the world, I have not eaten a lot of this kind of food so I was determined to try a bit of everthing.

From spicy curry goat (which was ever so slightly tough and chewy but instantly forgiven as it's also very tasty), I moved to caramelised, squishy sweet fried plaintain. Can you tell I adore plaintain?!

There were also two types of rice, which is typically fairly bland in the UK - but not here!
The traditional starchy, well-seasoned Jamaican rice and peas (despite the name, I've only ever seen it as rice and kidney beans although apparentlly the dish refers to any combination of rice and legume - anyone who knows why it's always called rice and peas regardless, please let me know!) was the more familiar. (see picture below)

However, I opted for the less well-known Nigerian Jollof rice (see picture above), which I am reliably informed was appropriated from neighboroughing Ghana (although are African national boundaries just a Western construct? A conversation for another time in another place...), and is also known as benachin, meaning "one pot" in the Wolof language. It is now a popular dish in many parts of West Africa, spread by the members of the Wolof ethnic group.

There are many variations of Jollof rice. The most common basic ingredients are rice, tomatoes and tomato paste, onion, salt, and red pepper. It is cooked by using oil to fry finely-chopped onions, tomatoes and ground pepper, combining with stock and cooking the rice in the stock so it becomes plump and flavoursome. The rice takes on a characteristic orange colour from the mixture.

There was also a choice of chicken: falling-off-the-bone chicken stew,made with thyme, garlic, pimento, scotch bonnet pepper and chicken stock or blackened Jamaican jerk chicken. Neither really need any further description except to say that the jerk had me reaching for my water glass! Almost tipped the balance from pleasantly tingly sensation into I-think-I've-just-killed-my-tastebuds - but not quite! I loved it!

There was also a Jamaica vs. Nigeria battle of the fish. Faced with a choice between Nigerian fish stew (fish seasoned with herbs and cooked with peppers, chilli, onions and tomatoes) or Jamaican Run Down (a mild fish curry cooked with herbs, spices and simmered in coconut milk), of course I had to try them both! I couldn't tell the type of fish used, except to say I suspect it was a white fish of more local origin, the sweet, delicate coconut milk won the day for me.

Overall verdict: spicy, sweet, robust. It's not fine dining, but it was a solid, satisfying and healthy meal and I can't wait to try it again.

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