Ooh La La Du Du!

Com Tam

La Du Du in north west London is a Vietnamese restaurant clearly proud of its roots. The menu informed me that La Du Du means papaya leaf in Vietnamese. And did you know, proclaims a sign on the wall, that Vietnam is the second largest exporter of coffee in the world? Frankly, I didn't - and I'm not sure I needed to but hey ho!

We chose a range of starters: the cha gio (or spring rolls) were deep fried, stuffed with crispy pork, prawns and lettuce. Quite delicious but a smidgeon too oily; I actually wiped mine on a napkin before eating - and it left a massive smear. The muc don thit - stuffed baby calamari - were less familiar but much more tasty, plump with filling that spilled generously when you cut into it. Finallly, to refresh the palate, our final sharing starter was summer rolls (goi cuon) - rice paper wraps enfolding pork, prawns, vermicelli, cucumber, lettuce, coriander and mint. These were light and genuinely reminiscent of summer, setting a high standard for the main course to follow.
From the wide range of entrees, my companion opted for the com tam - pan fried marinated pork chops served with shredded pork skin with roasted rice powder, steamed crabmeat cake with a fried egg on top. Oh and don't forget the mountain of rice that accompanied the dish. And yes it was as mountainous as it sounds. My companion actually considered asking for a doggy bag! While the pork was lovely and tender, the shredded pork skin was disturbingly gelatinous and floppy and we just didn't like it. The crab cake was a real treat though - meaty and fresh and beautifully seasoned. I had the com da ga gion - twice cooked marinated crispy skin chicken with tomato rice. Although this was a bit more usual shall we say, the portion was equally garguantuan and I only ate about half of it, which was a shame as it was delicious - like the best roast chicken you've ever had at a family dinner on a Friday night.

By this point, we were so stuffed that we couldn't even contemplate dessert but we agreed that La Du Du would be a great first date venue as the food provided enough talking points to keep even the most nervous suitor articulate, while the prices were reasonable and the restaurant itself sophisticated enough without being too formal.

Learn more or make a reservation via www.ladudu.com

Oh to be in England...

Oh to be in England, now that summer's here! And what could be more English than to sit in the sunshine of the gardens of one's country pile and enjoy a light meal.

Failing that, what could be better than sitting in the gardens of someone else's beautifully landscaped former home (now a hotel and restaurant) and do the same!

Goat's cheese salad

The Grim's Dyke Hotel in north west London has a fabulous history: it was the home of Sir William Gilbert (the Gilbert from Gilbert & Sullivan) until his untimely death trying to save someone else from drowning in the lake. Following this, the property won awards for its gardens, was a sanitorium and hospital, the site of secret World War II projects, became a film set for Hammer horror films, and the location for many well known TV shows up to the present. In 1996 it underwent a £3 million restoration and refurbishment under the supervision of English Heritage to create the delightful hotel and restaurant it is today. To sum it up, it's the venue little girls' wedding dreams are made of.

Summer Pudding

As you can see, when I visited, the day was absolutely glorious so my companion and I sat outside and opted for the lighter bar menu, although there is an accomplished restaurant on site as well. We shared the appetising but unattractive Thai fish cakes that were slightly spongy and generic, if I'm honest. Far better was the hunk of warm goat's cheese with tangy red onion relish that had been prepared to order on site. I would recommend the chef sticks with savoury dishes that he makes himself as the skill level is definitely there! This was rich, gooey, sweet and sharp all at once.

Cream Tea

Afterwards, I chose the summer pudding, which was beautifully juicy, stuffed full of strawberries, blueberries, redcurrants, raspberries, cranberries and pomegranate seeds. It was summer pudding, Jim, but not as we know it! I've never had one so rich and generous yet at the same time light and summery. It must rate among my top ten desserts ever.

My companion had the homemade scones with cream and jam. Crunchy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, these scones had clearly benefitted from a great deal of TLC from an expert hand.

If you're at a loose end one afternoon on a lovely warm day and you fancy some reasonably priced posh nosh (the Summer Pudding was only £6.00, and the Goat's Cheese Salad was £9.50) in a beautiful, tranquil environment (which FYI has free wifi!) the Grim's Dyke Hotel is for you. It is truly a place that summer was made for.

For more information on the Grim's Dyke Hotel, visit http://www.grimsdyke.com/

Plaintain two ways with mojito

Viva la Revolucion!

When you think of Cuba, you think of 1950's American cars, beautiful sandy beaches, honeymoons and salsa dancing. Food doesn't really come into it. What is Cuban cuisine? Anyone?

At Cubana - which is right next to Waterloo train station in London - I had the chance to find out. Doubling up as a music venue, this cosy restaurant required other guests to stand up so that we could get to our table. As the syncopated rhythms played in this colourful environment, troubles seemed to melt away as we perused the menu.

Pincho de gamas y mango

From some typically Caribbean fare such as fried plaintain and rice and peas, one sensed that the chefs had, like us, struggled to identify what Cuban food actually is, as we also choose chicken breast in tempura batter.

Perhaps this is because, as I later learned from a friend, the economic situation of Cuba means that there is inconsistent produce availability: one week the shops and restaurants serve chicken; the next week, they have only pork. As a result, it's difficult to nail down a typical Cuban meal. Even the tourist venues are not immune. That is slowly changing as international relations improve but for now, it remains an issue.

Croquetas de boniato y chorizo

In Cubana, however, the politics seemed a world away. Sipping from our happy hour jug of mojito, we munched on plaintain two ways: crispy chips and sweetly caramelised fried plaintain drizzled with lime to give it a bit of bite. To follow, we sampled the barbecued skewer of pincho de gambas y mango: grilled prawn kebabs with green peppers and mango marinated in a sweet sauce of guava, ginger, honey and lime.

My favourite dish, however, was the croquetas de boniato y chorizo con salsa: fried sweet potato croquettes mixed with chorizo. These are simply unmissable and it was worth going just for them as far as I'm concerned!

Cubana

As the evening wore on, the bar area started to get busier and eventually, the tables are cleared to make way for the expert salsa dancing we amateurishly imitated. The ambience was friendly, though, and we enjoyed every moment.

For a fun evening of food, drink and dance under one roof - or even if the weather permits, in the outside area - this is a great place to try. I have noticed that Cubana frequently hosts events such as a charity fundraiser for Children of the Andes as well as a salsa carnival; it's a lively, colourful and friendly place so come on down and bring your friends!

Find out more at http://www.cubana.co.uk/

Just like Papa used to make...

Gordon Ramsay frequently visits troubled restaurants and they seem to have one thing in common. No, I'm not talking about a dysfunctional family unit with no gastronomic experience running the place. I'm talking about a ridiculously extensive menu.
You know the saying: jack of all trades, master of none. Gordon obviously agrees, as the first thing he does is to cut down the menu, find their USP and focus on that.

Paccheri Porcini e Speck

But I think I've found the exception that proves the rule. Pizzeria Papagone in Finsbury Park, north east London, has one of the longest list of offerings I've ever seen. As well as the traditional Spaghetti Carbonara and Spaghetti Bolognese, there are more unusual dishes available, such as Pizza Porcini (with bufalo mozzarella, speck, taleggio and porcini mushrooms). Yes, yes, it's not totally outlandish but I've never seen speck and taleggio together on a pizza before as well as a venison ragu with truffle oil (see below).

Tagliatelle Cervo e Porcini

These creative combinations set a nice tone and the place was certainly buzzing. Although it was mid-week, the restaurant was full and by the time we left, people were waiting for a table. It was also great to see the chefs beavering away in the open kitchen - always reassuring and fascinating to see them at work.

Forgoing a starter, we plumped for Paccheri Porcini e Speck (super large pasta tubes - which were obviously fresh - with a sauce of porcini mushrooms, speck - a traditionally cured Italian ham - shallots and cream). While the sauce was rich and sticky, there was so much food that by the end it felt a little cloying and we couldn't finish it. Our second dish was Tagliatelle Cervo e Porcini, which was pasta in a marinated venison ragu drizzled with truffle oil. This was more tomato-y and felt earthy and healthy, although the portion size was equally ginormous and we ended up taking away doggy bags.

Did this mean we had no room for the celebrated gelato (not ice cream! they are careful to pronounce) - absolutely not! With 19 flavours to choose from, it was a bit overwhelming but we got there in the end, opting for the massive Coppa Cioccomenta - 2 scoops of mint choc chip with 1 scoop of chocolate, covered with chocolate and peppermint syrup and cream and laced with chopped up After Eight mints - minty heaven!

Coppa Cioccomenta

And of course you can't go to a pizzeria without sampling the tiramisu. Unsurprisingly, this was also huge but with a bitter-sweet balance of coffee and cream that we delighted in.

My only criticism is one that I also suspect Gordon Ramsay would also take issue with: the portion sizes. The chefs are certainly serious about living up to their tagline "it'sa nice'a place to stuffa your face".

Although the food was delicious, there was so much of it that your heart sank a little when the servers arrived (with impeccable speed) with your plate. All the basics of flavour, seasoning and creativity are there so I felt that, with a little refining, this place could be out of this world.

But as it stands, with an extensive and reasonably priced menu, there will be something for everyone to enjoy in this cheerful, relaxed pizzeria. If you haven't eaten all day and you're looking for prompt, no-nonsense, delicious Italian food like Papa used to make, this is the pizzeria for you.

Pizzeria Papagone http://www.pizzeriapappagone.co.uk/

A-Mazar-Ing Afghan

Banjan Borani

Let's be fair: Afghan food isn't exactly prolific in the UK. It tends to get lumped in together with Turkish, Lebanese, Egyptian etc. And when you ask people about Afghan food, the predominant view is that it consists of kebabs, preferably after a night in the pub. Chortle, chortle.

And so it was, armed with little knowledge but an open mind, that I went to Mazar in Harrow. Named after a village in Badakhshan Province in north-eastern Afghanistan., the venue had received an average 10/10 rating by AllinLondon so I was surprised by the unprepossessing exterior and dated decor and feared that it was exactly as I'd feared: a kebab shop. But if there was ever a lesson in not judging a book (or restaurant) by its cover, this was it.

Borani Sabzi

With no experience of Mazari cuisine, my companions and I opted for a range of dishes. Despite ordering starters and mains, the food all appeared at the same time which was a little overwhelming. Our favourite was the Borani Sabzi, delicately spiced and practically liquidised steamed spinach. I know, I know - sounds like a schoolboy's worst ever school dinner, and looked even worse - but trust me, it was gorgeous. A close second was Banjan Borani - aubergine in fresh tomato sauce, green pepper and garlic. Accompanied by warm, doughy naan bread to soak up the juices, we were in heaven.

While we sipped on Afghani green tea, the rest of the food was already arriving, a veritable mountain of goodies. The authentic Qabeli Palow featured lamb and what we surmised is the Afghan equivalent of Jamaican rice and peas: plain white rice mixed in with juicy sultanas and sweet grated carrot.

Qabeli Palow

Despite being told we'd have to wait for the fish special, it arrived in no time: beautifully grilled salmon steaks - crisp on the outside, moist on the inside - with a flavour I couldn't identify, and our server, despite being incredibly welcoming and hospitable, had only limited English and was unable to clarify the spicing for me. A shame, as I'd love to have tried it at home, although I suspect it was cooked in a tandoor-type oven; it had that kind of quality.

So let me mention the service here: it was warm but unintrusive, our tea glasses were refilled regularly, the manager was at pains to make sure we understood that everything was cooked fresh and on site. All the staff seemed genuinely pleased that we were there.

Even Ashak, the ravioli-style pasta filled with leek and herbs - arguably the prettiest dish we were served - was tasty, although surely more Italian than Afghan? Not that I'm any kind of expert.
 

Ashak

I also have to comment on the unbelievable value for money. The most expensive thing we ordered was the salmon at £8.95 and there were three massive steaks on the plate. You can see from the photos just how much food was served for each dish. Of course, it's not just about the quantity, but the quality as well. Although presentation was not necessarily at the forefront of the chef's mind, taste absolutely was. We fell in love with Mazari cuisine and hospitality and can't wait to try it again. 


For more information at AllinLondon go to http://www.allinlondon.co.uk/restaurants/restaurant-11249.php

Perfect for a Summer's Evening: A Taste of Italy in Hatch End

Sea bass

With the improved weather, I was recently looking for somewhere in north west London where I could sit outside and enjoy good food in the sunshine.
Hatch End is a small quiet town (if it's even big enough to be called a town) with a high street that features more restaurants than anything else. I think I counted eight Italian restaurants alone! With so much local competition, my companions and I thought that the quality must be high.
 

Prawn cocktail

Established in 1982, Fellini prides itself on a friendly, family ambience and, sitting under the awning, protected from the sun but enjoying the warmth it provided, this was very much in evidence as we were encouraged to take our time to choose from the extensive menu. While making up our minds we were offered some complimentary crudites (moist olives, cucumber and carrot with a refreshing dip) and fluffy, fresh bread, which went down very well.

Frogs' legs

For our meal "proper" we chose a range of starters, from the traditional to the unusual.

On the less adventurous side, the prawn cocktail was fresh with a tangy Marie Rose sauce that was unapologetically synonymous with the 1970's. Similarly, salty parma ham set off the accompanying sweetness of honeydew melon with a perfect familiarity that let us relax into our meal, like a comfy old jumper, knowing that everything was going to be alright.

Roast duck

On the other end of the spectrum, one of my companions tried frogs' legs for the first time. I know what you're thinking - frogs' legs? In an Italian restaurant? But, in a tomato sauce, they are also a delicacy in the northern Italian Piedmont region as well as in Tuscany. With a fishy texture and tasting like chicken, the frogs' legs dish was made sweet by the almonds and fresh cherry tomatoes in the creamy sauce. As you might be able to see in the top left of the photo, the one slightly off-putting thing was the pair of legs looking like they had just jumped into the sauce...
Next up, our amiable servers brought us another range of dishes. On the high comfort level side this time, we had old favourite spaghetti bolognese. Piping hot, laced with hunks of beef, the flavour was subtle but strong. It had clearly been cooked to order - no less, frankly, than I would expect for such a staple, and the pasta was perfectly al dente.

Confettura della nonna

Not impressed? Well, haven't we all made spag bol at home! How about grilled sea bass with fennel seeds and balsamic vinegar? The fish was fresh and meaty and slightly translucent, with a sweetness from the balsamic drizzle and a wafer-thin crunch of skin (see top photo). Or what about crispy roast duck with sticky sweet cherry sauce? The only critiques would be that there was a supplement for the duck and, as you can see, the portions were generous. Perhaps the cost could be lower if a little less food was served... In addition, we felt that the salad that accompanied the food was a little superfluous as there was just so much already, none of us touched it.

Selva nera

As we sat outside, letting our food go down and drinking our wine, we pored over the extensive dessert menu. Finally, starting to feel a little chilly and overwhelmed by the amount of choice, we relocated inside and looked at the gelato station and other desserts on offer. This is a great feature because, athough there were pictures on the dessert menu, we all changed our minds after seeing the desserts in the flesh, as it were.

Frutti di bosca

I had an adorably presented confettura della nonna or creamy fruits of the forest frozen yoghurt while my companions opted for something a little more substantial! One of them chose the frutti di bosco - a light sponge smothered in tart fruit accompanied by slightly whipped cream. For an extra 50p, we added a densely cocoa'ed scoop of chocolate ice cream (well for 50p, why not!?) - imagine freezing a cup of cocoa - it was that kind of intensity. My other companion opted for a hunk of selva nera (think black forest gateau) filled with cherries and chocolate cream, adding a scoop of mint choc chip ice cream. The peppermint freshness was a delight after a long indulgent meal, especially as it didn't include uniform choc chips - some were shavings some were chunks, so it was great fun to eat with every spoonful different.

We had a wonderful summer evening at Fellini: the place looks great, the food is even better and the service was warm. With the outdoor seating, this is my summer find and I cannot recommend it enough.

Fellini http://www.felliniacaffe.co.uk/